Laser Wolf comes to Brooklyn, the latest rosé vintages from the Hamptons, and new BjornQorn flavors.
The Return of the Chickpea
Laser Wolf, 97 Wythe Ave., Williamsburg
It has been four long years since Dizengoff departed Chelsea Market and New York last tasted partner Mike Solomonov’s masterful hummus. But on May 1, that dip makes its triumphant return — this time as part of the family-style menu at the new Brooklyn outpost of Laser Wolf, the chef’s Israeli grill house in Philly. (The name is a nod to Lazar Wolf, the butcher in Fiddler on the Roof.) Included in the set price is an array of seasonal salatim, or salads and spreads, plus your choice of skewered meat, fish, or vegetable, all cooked over charcoal on the roof of Williamsburg’s Hoxton hotel.
The New Vintage
Pink-drink news from the South Fork: Sagaponack’s Wölffer Estate, known for emulating the rosés of Provence, has actually produced one there. The Summer in a Bottle Côtes de Provence Rosé 2021 ($26) is a true-to-form, steel-tank-fermented, Grenache-dominant blend that, the tasting notes inform us, goes great with bouillabaisse, should your fishmonger have any rascasse handy. And over in Bridgehampton, Channing Daughters Winery continues to explore the nuances of its eclectic grapes and microterroir with its annual Molti Rosati series: this year, five variety-specific bottlings, from Refosco to Cabernet Franc, plus a Merlot-based field blend that gets a boost from Blaufränkisch and Teroldego ($24).
The Chefs’ Residency
Ostudio, 366 Stockton St., Bedford-Stuyvesant
Chef turned ceramicist Fernando Aciar is such a proponent of creative collaboration he opened a co-working hub in Brooklyn called Ostudio. Now he has added food and drink to the mix, converting the front of the space into a café by day, wine bar by night. He has scheduled a series of monthly chefs’ residencies, launching May 3 with Giuseppe Lacorazza, a Colombian chef and writer via Mexico City whose seasonal style reflects Latin American heritage and diasporas. Although his menu is not finalized, one planned dish is fennel-pollen-vinegar-cured fish with almond milk, chayote, turmeric, and lime zest, which Lacorazza describes as “kind of an aguachile at heart but creamier and more delicate in flavor.”
The Really Smart Food
Eataly, multiple locations
Once upon a time, when asked what our desert-island snack food would be, the answer was easy: “BjornQorn.” Now, there’s a follow-up question: “Which BjornQorn?” Everyone’s favorite solar-popped-popcorn poppers, you see, have been busy. They’ve been brainstorming. They’ve just added two flavors to their roster. These new arrivals, the truffle-salted Earth and maple-sugared Maple, are a little splashier than their Classic, Cloudy, and Spicy precursors with greater potential for overkill. But the brand’s signature subtlety prevails, with the seasonings (including nutritional yeast in the case of Earth) providing just enough of an accent to remind you they’re there without stealing the show.
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April 26, 2022 at 09:34PM
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What to Eat, Drink, and Shop For Right Now - Grub Street
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