Tackling crispy lamb, cumin tofu and more recipes.
Good morning. One of the many pleasures of working from the office after so much time away is rediscovering the restaurants I used to haunt at lunch time. My old friends! It’s largely been true, save for my return to the place where I liked to get dry-fried cumin lamb of fragrant excellence and remarkable, fiery complexity. It’s a limp, pallid, salty mess now. For this I put on dress shoes and took the subway?
I’ve got some feelers out for another spot. But in the meantime, I’m going to make it at home, using this recipe for crispy lamb with cumin, scallions and red chiles (above) that my colleague Julia Moskin adapted from the one Weiliang Chen used in his kitchen at the now-closed Northeast Taste in Flushing, Queens. (Melissa Clark has a streamlined version.)
I hope you’ll join me, even if lamb’s not your jam. Hetty McKinnon developed a recipe for cumin tofu that’s a vegan riff on a signature dish at Xi’an Famous Foods, the chef Jason Wang’s restaurant chain in New York. “Loved, loved, loved this recipe,” one subscriber wrote beneath it.
Heading in cooler directions, I’m eager to make this farro salad with marinated artichokes and olives, along with feta and red onion. It should hold up well for lunch the next day, as well. (Taking it to the beach? Here’s how to pack your cooler.)
Also, this chicken and celery salad with wasabi-tahini dressing, these serious potato skins and these lovely, deeply flavorful salt and pepper shrimp rolls.
I’m game for strawberry shortcake, too, and mango pie. It’d be cool to make olive oil granola with dried apricots and pistachios. Is this the week I make the first ice cream of the season? I think it is. I want to make salted caramel ice cream so bad! (Maybe with salted caramel sauce on top? Too much?)
There are many thousands more recipes to consider on New York Times Cooking. Yes, it’s true: You need a subscription to access them, just as you do to read The Atlantic. Subscriptions support our work and allow it to continue. I hope, if you haven’t done so already, that you will consider subscribing today. Thanks.
If you run into problems signing up, or using the site, please write for assistance: cookingcare@nytimes.com. You can also write to me: foodeditor@nytimes.com. I’m as helpful with accounts and technology as a turtle on a fence post. But I know some folks, and I read every letter sent.
Now, it’s a long day’s drive from anything to do with mung beans or cabbage, but I loved Dwight Garner’s review, in The Times, of the bookseller Marius Kociejowski’s memoir: “A Factotum in the Book Trade.”
I’m late to it, but you should read Amanda Fortini, in T Magazine, on the legacy of Black Mountain College.
Read this overdue obituary in The Times for Lottie Brunn, an amazing juggler who died in 2008 at age 82.
Finally, here’s Maren Morris’s latest, “Circles Around This Town,” a country music song about writing country music songs. Listen to that while you cook. I’ll be back on Wednesday.
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July 25, 2022 at 10:00PM
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